First new fibre classification from FTA in 25 years
The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has approved renoa, a regenerated fibre, marking the first new apparel fibre classification approved by the agency since the approval of PLA in 2002.
Developed in Everbloom’s New York City lab, Renoa is made from keratin-rich textile offcuts and waste and is said to offer breathability and softness.
Creating a new FTC-recognised apparel fiber category requires demonstrating that the material is fundamentally distinct from existing fibres through a rigorous regulatory review.
Simardev Gulati, CEO of Everbloom, which was previously called Bloom, said: "Renoa is the result of years of work by our material and computer scientists, chemical engineers and fashion designers to craft a circular fibre that combines the best of biology and human ingenuity to optimise hand-feel and performance while dropping seamlessly into existing industrial infrastructure.
“The global fibre market is more than a $1 trillion industry and has run on the same fossil-based chemistry for half a century, while most of the manufacturing base has moved to Asia. By combining our proprietary AI platform, Braid.AI, with advanced manufacturing, we've created an entirely new category of fibre and a real chance to rebuild America's textile base around it."
By forecasting key fibre characteristics, including softness, strength, texture, and dyeability, before production begins, Braid.AI accelerates material development. It predicts how each protein stream will behave during production, enabling Everbloom to optimise production parameters before manufacturing begins.
The approval follows Everbloom’s 2025 launch and a funding round led by Hoxton Ventures, with participation from SOSV, Breakthrough Energy, Endgame Capital, Clocktower Ventures, and its latest investor, the Partnership Fund for New York City.
Read more about the process in Sportstextiles’ interview with Simardev Gulati.
