Much is still unknown concerning the source and impact of microfibre pollution from textiles and apparel and levels of concern remain high. While collecting and testing protocols are in development in laboratories to further the science, it is in the mills that the search for possible solutions is taking place.

Piece by piece, or rather report by report, thanks to academic research and industry organisations, a body of evidence on textiles and microparticle pollution is coming together. But many gaps in the puzzle remain. Understanding the role that textiles and apparel play in their proliferation is particularly difficult as these minute fragments are hard to collect and isolate, their composition is not always easy to identify with precision, and there is scant research on the sequence of events that carries them from factory, wastewater treatment plant, washing machine or garment itself (who knows?) to the remote, natural locations across the globe where they are being found.

Before the science sorts out the intricacies of the phenomenon, the textile industry can only conjecture. Intuitively, it is suspected that spun yarns would be more prone to releasing microparticles than continuous filament yarns. A spun yarn is made from short staple fibres that have either been cut from longer continuous filaments or are short by nature, as is the case with cotton and wool. It is believed that they might be more liable to break away from the twists of a yarn. UK organisation The Microfibre Consortium (TMC) has tested many fabrics; its research does not confirm this hypothesis.

Using a test method developed by TMC and considered “a reliable and robust method to quantify fibre fragmentation from textile fabrics,” as Dr Mark Sumner of the University of Leeds said in a TMC statement, his team found that: “Fragmentation is a complex process that is affected by materials, fibres, yarn structure, fabric structure and finishing processes. Simple statements that one fabric type is worse than another ignore this complexity and mislead product development teams. For example, when testing two fabrics which appear to be the same, in that they are both knitted filament polyester, Fabric B had over 30 times more fibre fragmentation than Fabric A. There is much more work needed to fully understand how fabric material and structural factors influence fragmentation”.

Spinning new solutions 

The search for solutions is, nonetheless, on. As anticipated, yarns and fabrics that profess to reduce the risk of fibre fragmentation base their claims on the use of continuous filaments.

Polyamide specialist Nylstar, based in Blanes, Spain, is introducing what it calls a ‘zero microfibre release’ Meryl yarn. It is made using the company’s hydrogen technology. “This special spinning process creates a strong bond between the hydrogen molecules, and this bond will be more difficult to break down,” Nylstar marketing manager, Zuzana Vaskova, tells WSA. “It is a slower production process than was used in the 1980s. It allows us to spin higher-quality and more sustainable filament yarns. These yarns have a very good hand-feel, and do not need any chemical additives or softeners, which makes them more sustainable.” Garments made from this Meryl yarn will therefore last longer and presumably shed fewer microfibres when washed and worn.

To support this claim, Nylstar works with Leitat, an innovation laboratory also based in Catalonia, which has the equipment to measure microfibre release into air or water. “Customers can have their fabrics tested in the lab to certify that they release no microparticles,” says Ms Vaskova. Leitat is a part of the Cross-Industry Agreement (CIA) network, an initiative launched in 2018 by five industry organisations, from sports (FESI and EOG), textiles (CIRFS, Euratex) and the detergent sector (AISE) to tackle microplastics released from fabrics. It has recently published an update on its research and announced that a harmonised test method had been developed and handed over to the European Committee for Standardisation (CEN). It may lead to an official normalised testing method in the EU by the end of the year.

Brazilian spinner Airjet Global also claims to have developed a spinning process that reduces fibre fragmentation. The patent-pending method, which it has branded Clean Ocean, can work at large scale and is specifically designed for blended fibres, such as polyester or polyamide combined with other synthetic fibres or with cotton,  cellulose or other plant-based fibres. Without revealing the technical details, Airjet Global CEO, Fernando Marin, says it is the result of 10 years of research and development, and that it reinforces the physical connections between fibres so as to reduce the risk of releasing particles. The company tests its yarns by subjecting 10 cm swatches of fabric made from its blends of cotton, polyester, elastane and others to a rotating cylinder filled with steel balls. “Our research shows that fewer fibres are released than with fabrics made from conventional cotton-polyester spun yarns,” says Mr Marin.

“It is complex and expensive to modify spinning machines to change composition or even yarn count,” he tells WSA. “But our method is quite flexible and adaptative. We can produce yarns in relatively small quantities (around 30 kg) and we can switch easily from a 100% cotton yarn to a 50% polyester-50% cotton or 80% polyester-20% cotton. We can also test new bio-fibres or mixes with technical fibres such as silver, Kevlar or carbon.” Airjet Global produces two main product ranges: BioCell yarns are made from fibres that are believed to biodegrade in landfill and LoopCell yarns, made from virgin or chemical recycled fibres (mainly synthetic) that can be further recycled.

Fabric engineering

In 2018, Polartec launched Power Air, a solution developed by the US-based performance knit manufacturer to offer both thermal insulation and reduced microfibre shedding. “It provides advanced thermal efficiency but sheds up to five times less than other premium mid-layer fabrics,” says Doug Kelliher, VP of product development for the Milliken-owned company. “While all fabrics will shed fibres over time, Polartec Power Air is a step forward in reducing the environmental impact of what we make and wear.” The fabric was chosen by Houdini to make a seasonless and versatile jacket, whose monomaterial design the Swedish brand has made available on an open-source basis through its Project Mono Air (see article in WSA Nov/Dec 2020). Houdini is one of the brands blazing new trails in sustainability, and it also stands out for its readiness to share its research.

Adoption of Polartec Power Air has been high, Eric Yung, international vice-president for Polartec, tells us. “The first brands to show interest came from the outdoor sector, but snowsports, cycling and lifestyle brands were quick to integrate it into their collections. For those brands that feel concerned, we have a solution that we have spent quite some time developing and we have a reliable test to back it,” he says.

Innovation in tools and systems

The fibre reinforcement system in development at Natural Fiber Welding, a company based in Peoria, Illinois, could also be a solution to reduce microfibre leaching. Its process “welds” short or staple cotton and cellulose fibres to make high-performance yarns or fabrics, which it sees as an alternative to polyester. “NFW provides cellulose with the performance necessary to displace polyester,” company founder and CEO, Dr Luke Haverhals, states.

Zyosh, a company based in Barcelona, which is part of textile group Augusto Bellini, has devised a system and smart label for companies concerned about the issue and to help raise awareness at consumer level. The system is based on assessing microfibre release from individual fabrics that are tested in a lab. The tag then keeps track of how many times an item of clothing has been laundered by changing colour. “At this stage of our knowledge, we have focused on the fabric itself, its composition and construction, and on the effect of home laundering,” says Pepe Costa, Zyosh founder and CEO. Launched late last year, the concept is designed for textile manufacturers and clothing brands or retailers. Zyosh says it is in advanced discussions with brands.

Though the science is still out on many aspects of this issue, the European Union has already mentioned microfibre pollution from textiles in its Green Deal and Circular Economy programmes. A distinction is being made between primary and secondary microparticles. The former are intentionally added, such as microbeads in cosmetics and cleaning products, while the latter are unintentionally released, which is the case for textiles. “These are much more complicated to address,” points out Mauro Scalia, Euratex director of sustainability. “It is easier to remove an ingredient than to avoid something unintentional. Furthermore, we do not yet have enough information and data to fully understand the phenomenon.” As mentioned above, developing a consensus around a test method is a first step in the right direction. Euratex, as part of the CIA, has supported research in this area. The creation of a recognised testing protocol will also help TMC, which has joined the CIA network, build up its fabric database on fibre fragmentation.

TMC’s own test protocol, ‘Quantification of fibre release from fabrics during domestic laundering’, was made available to the consortium’s members in 2020. “Member labs and approved third-party testing labs have been using this method since April last year to test submitted fabrics,” TMC managing director, Sophie Mather, said in an emailed statement. Some 200 fabrics have already gone through the process. “We are collaborating with members to test more fabrics, in specific research areas, that will provide the consortium with the data depth needed to produce conclusive industry statements,” she says. TMC membership includes some 40-plus organisations and sports apparel brands, from adidas to Vaude.

As the search for a better understanding of fibre fragmentation continues, some companies are mindfully taking measures to manufacture higher-quality products, as seen at Nylstar, Airjet Global, Polartec and Natural Fiber Welding. These yarns and fabrics will presumably be used to make higher-quality garments that last longer. They might also shed fewer microfibres. As a first measure to minimise microparticle release, it could be a fairly simple solution for a particularly complex issue.

Santini chose a Polartec Power Air fabric to create a thermal jacket offering both high performance and reduced fibre-shedding. It is part of the Italian brand’s UCI racewear collection and won a Polartec Apex award.       
CREDIT: Polartec / Santini

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