Relaxed explorers need multitasking shoe
Garmont taps into ‘unexplored market segment’ as the use of e-bikes and ‘slow tourism’ change consumer needs.
Outdoor footwear brand Garmont believes it has invented a new category of shoe, or at least one that meets the needs of “a currently unexplored segment of the market”. The 9.81 Hi Ride, which Garmont describes as “a hybrid shoe developed for those who love to cycle along rolling dirt trails, but not without getting out of the saddle for short walks in the woods or around a picturesque old town” is, therefore, an all-in-one shoe for hiking and biking.
The Italian company, which was established in 1964 and produced 500,000 pairs of shoes and boots in 2022, studied how consumers’ activities were changing and how needs were altering as a result. The pandemic and associated lock-downs slowed the pace of life for many, and created a new-found love of the outdoors as people craved a healthier lifestyle.
“The events of recent seasons have rekindled interest in the environment and the desire to be in contact with nature and, among the technological innovations that have led to an increasingly active life, e-bikes have certainly contributed to widening the audience of users, also creating a new consumer profile,” Davide Calcagnotto, general manager of Garmont, tells WSA. “This new end-consumer reaches destinations never reached before and enjoys slow tourism as a form of entertainment, discovering the territory, from gastronomy to culture, without chasing performance.”
The move away from performance presented a challenge: to design a shoe with sufficient rigidity to apply force to the pedal and, at the same time, the required flexibility to be comfortable enough to walk in. Garmont overcame this challenge with a two-zone outsole it calls the Garmont Traction Formula (GTF) Hyve. One part of the sole is made from recycled rubber with large, deep lugs to achieve the right compromise between grip, traction and durability while walking. The other zone is made from a softer compound with high-density honeycomb lugs to offer increased pedal grip.
Gone are the classic cycling bindings for performance shoes; instead a proprietary heel-lock technology keeps the heel in place when the laces are tightened. This works by means of loops that are integrated into the lateral reinforcement.
“There are already shoes on the market that are ideal for trail riding and e-bikes, but which focus on power transmission during pedalling and are not very oriented towards walking,” explains Mr Calcagnotto. “Garmont wanted to take the alternative route, allowing comfortable hiking without sacrificing the right compromise of stiffness for pedalling.”
Selective suppliers
Sustainability of materials is a “fundamental pillar” of Garmont, and the R&D department pays particular attention to the use of materials that provide excellent performance but with the lowest possible environmental impact, he adds. The upper is made from recycled, abrasion-resistant rip-stop nylon, while the lightweight protective panels and the heat-bonded TPU trim provide added protection. The shoe also has an Ortholite insole made from 98% recycled materials, and a midsole made from a bio-based compound derived from sugarcane.
“Our suppliers are chosen with care, because we select only high-quality raw materials, favouring the reduction of emissions and a supply chain that is as short as possible,” says Mr Calcagnotto. “This is because transport also affects sustainability, and the high quality of the materials guarantee greater durability once the shoe is assembled. A shoe that lasts longer will clearly have less impact.”
The concept and R&D work began in 2021, and although this was not an easy time to invest in new products, given the uncertainty in the market due to the pandemic, the Veneto-based company pushed ahead with the testing. “Right from the start, we set ourselves the goal of responding to the needs of a new niche market and we did it our way, with the classic Garmont style, that is developing a shoe with our trusted testers who carried out tests for several months. They were the first to be surprised by the versatility of the shoe, by its comfort and flexibility when walking.”
Risk management
Although the pandemic disrupted some supply chains, Garmont is now growing strongly. It reported revenues of €40.5 million for 2022, an increase of 60% compared with the previous year. The company said this was a testament to its ability to respond to market opportunities as they arise, despite increasing production costs and supply chain shortages.
Mr Calcagnotto explained that the company adopted a risk management and product/market/ footprint diversification strategy in 2019. It now sells in more than 50 countries and manufactures in Europe, Asia and America, which allows it to respond to opportunities quickly, with a “lean and efficient” internal structure. “We share our feedback with customers and involve them in planning,” he adds. “We adopted innovative tools such as Maker Sights, which allow us to work with three-year plans but enables us to introduce corrective measures quickly, if necessary.”
These ‘corrective measures’ might include changing a colourway, for example, as marketing tool MakerSights enables brands to gather consumer sentiment and feedback via interactive charts within the platform, helping them decide which products or colours might sell well, or not, before rolling out a concept more widely.
Germany remains Garmont’s top market; it has a wide distribution network there and generated a 60% increase in sales in 2022. It achieved good results in the rest of Europe and said demand for its products was also strong in the US, growing by 40% compared with 2021. Over the next three years, Garmont plans to lower the CO2 impact of its best sellers, increase digitalisation and open up new markets.
Impressing judges
For the 9.81 Hi-Ride, this summer will be a pivotal time with several consumer-focused events planned, following pleasing interest and good sales results in its first season. The design was a hit at bike industry event Design & Innovation Awards, where a panel of journalists, professional test riders and industry experts named the shoe the winner in the Outdoor category.
“The ‘phase-in’ period is not easy to plan, especially if there is no history,” says Mr Calcagnotto of the shoe’s introduction, “but we are convinced that through product test opportunities, the 9.81 Hi-Ride will find more and more space.”
From bike to path to restaurant; new type of consumer operates at a slower pace.
All credits: Garmont