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Second nature

Second nature

Emulating the properties of a squid’s suction cups or, more prosaically, those of wool, two new biotech protein fibres are in the works at Tandem Repeat. What began in a biomimetic materials lab at Penn State University is now close to being ready for market.  The array of protein fibres derived from fermentation stands to grow...
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02 April 2025
Growing consensus
Growing consensus
After years of outdated data on cotton, 13 industry bodies worked with Cascale to provide new figures for the Higg Index.
26 March 2025
Tapping into new roots
Tapping into new roots
Yulex believes a desire for options other than petrochemical-based raw materials will create opportunities in the footwear sector and its repositioning in Asia will help it capitalise on demand.
12 March 2025
Close connections
Close connections
A highly focused show, Mare di Moda attracts top buyers and suppliers in the swim, beach and athleisure-sports sectors.
06 March 2025
Seaweed solutions
Seaweed solutions
A source of superfood, biofuels and more, algae is touted by some as no less than the most influential organism of the twenty-first century. A thriving natural resource, but also a bane when it blooms in excess, the aquatic plant is also being tapped to make biobased dyes and fibres for the textile industry.
27 February 2025
WSA turns 30 and becomes Sportstextiles
WSA turns 30 and becomes Sportstextiles
Consultant editor, David Buirski, has been covering the performance textile industry for more than three decades and textiles in general for much longer.
04 December 2024
Wrong direction
Wrong direction
Global fibre production reached a record figure in 2023, but recycled fibres contributed only 7.7% to the total.
27 November 2024
Tipping the needle
Tipping the needle
An increasing number of start-ups are hoping to serve the fashion industry’s growing interest in ‘next-generation’ materials.
20 November 2024
Sweet deal for stretch
Sweet deal for stretch
With an in investment of $1 billion, Hyosung is showing a strong commitment to renewable resources for its elastane offerings.
13 November 2024
New ground
New ground
Alongside the release of a second planetary boundary assessment, which monitors its activities as a whole, Houdini is expanding the scope of how it measures the impact of its garments.
06 November 2024
Untangling the second-hand clothing trade
Untangling the second-hand clothing trade
It is well known that shiploads of second-hand clothes are transported from Europe and North America to Africa, Pakistan, Chile and other places.
30 October 2024
Disassembly lines
Disassembly lines
A research centre is testing and developing automated systems for dismantling textiles and leathergoods.
04 September 2024
Brazil report asks tough questions of Better Cotton
Brazil report asks tough questions of Better Cotton
Major clothing companies have questioned sustainability initiative Better Cotton following a critical report from non-profit group Earthsight.
21 August 2024
A solution for a sticky problem
A solution for a sticky problem
Advances in adhesive technology are opening up new possibilities for recycling athletic shoes.
14 August 2024
Hidden protection for easy riding
Hidden protection for easy riding
Taking a material from the aerospace industry, a “crazy” idea became a viable product in the hands of the textiles masterminds at Tejidos Royo.
31 July 2024
Smart tracks
Smart tracks
The emergence of new business models and the likely implementation of digital product passports may require new features and functions that warrant extending the range of traceability technologies.
24 July 2024
No wood to waste
No wood to waste
In addition to going into manmade cellulosic fibres, the renewable resource that is pulped wood is also being tapped for other textile industry supplies, including polymers and chemicals, offering a new array of materials that are not derived from fossil fuels.
15 May 2024
Get Down with the Facts
Get Down with the Facts
British outdoor brand Rab moves forward with its down recycling programme.
08 May 2024
Performance provides the buzz
Performance provides the buzz
Changes to materials and construction are crucial in creating shoes that will provide athletes with performance gains. What this means for sustainability strategies is a separate question.
01 May 2024
Polartec moves up a gear
Polartec moves up a gear
Cycling brands are among early adopters of bio-based nylon-containing Power Shield, which also incorporates a new construction to make it Polartec’s most waterproof and breathable technology yet.
24 April 2024
Striving for circular stretch
Striving for circular stretch
Under Armour and Celanese have unveiled a fresh type of stretch fibre that they say could provide a more easily recyclable alternative to elastane – and they are keen for wider industry adoption.
17 April 2024
The rise of alternative natural fibres
The rise of alternative natural fibres
In the wide world of agricultural waste lie many long and strong fibres that can be spun into textile yarns for apparel and accessories.
10 April 2024
Creative chemistry
Creative chemistry
Cooking oils and fruit stones are among the new raw materials being harnessed to make textile auxiliaries.
03 April 2024
Plastic-eating enzymes
Plastic-eating enzymes
Enzymes, microbes and such can develop the ability to break down any substance they find in their close environment, including plastics. They are now being screened and tailored to depolymerise PET plastics, polyester textiles and fabrics made from polyamide.
21 March 2024
Family values shine at MarediModa
Family values shine at MarediModa
The Cannes-based show prides itself on offering premium fabrics for the swimwear sector. The longstanding heritage of the exhibitors was reflected in the high-quality and skilful fabric offerings for summer 2025.
05 March 2024
New tech for old values
New tech for old values
Vivobarefoot aims to tackle the vast amounts of footwear waste by creating ‘scan-to-print’, locally made custom shoes that wearers could treasure for longer.
21 February 2024
Time for regeneration
Time for regeneration
Ambercycle looks to have received a game-changing boost in its bid to begin commercial-scale production of regenerated polyester fibres.
14 February 2024
Biotech breakthrough
Biotech breakthrough
Spiber’s Brewed Protein is the first purely biotech fibre to be developed on a commercial scale. Fellow Japanese company and long-time partner Goldwin has played a crucial role in bringing the innovative fibre to market.
07 February 2024
Chemical recycling scales up
Chemical recycling scales up
New factories for depolymerising polyester textiles are in the works. Using a variety of ‘advanced’ or molecular recycling processes, they promise to treat textile waste that cannot be mechanically recycled.
31 January 2024
Ocean-bound versus Ocean-found
Ocean-bound versus Ocean-found
A new category of recycled synthetics uses material at risk of ending up in the open sea or recycled from debris fished out of the ocean. These two sources constitute, regrettably, a near unlimited supply.
18 December 2023
A return to apparel for Advansa
A return to apparel for Advansa
Ten years on from major changes at the company, polyester yarn developer Advansa is making a return to the apparel market.
13 December 2023
Not a small feat
Not a small feat
Outdoor performance soling supplier Vibram has secured new status as the first-ever shoe brand and the first outsole manufacturer to become a Bluesign system partner.
06 December 2023
Powered by a super-polymer
Powered by a super-polymer
Already in use in adidas exercise apparel, a composite thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) called Rheon has now gone into the brand’s clothing for runners, providing, in an unusual way, dynamic support to key muscle groups.
29 November 2023
Biobased options
Biobased options
Binita Bhuta, vice-president for marketing and sustainability at CovationBio.
22 November 2023
Moving along nicely
Moving along nicely
China is pushing ahead with its five-year national fitness plan, announced two years ago, after a less-than-certain start in the midst of national and international covid-19 lockdowns.
15 November 2023
Herculean effort
Herculean effort
The team at New Zealand-based TMC spent five years looking for a way to add durability to wool garments without relying on synthetics. The answer was closer than they thought.
08 November 2023
Trash into treasure
Trash into treasure
Could proteins provide the building blocks for a new fibre to rival polyester and silk? Bloom Labs believes it has found a solution.
01 November 2023
Eye in the sky
Eye in the sky
The European Space Agency is working with GOTS to map and monitor organic cotton cultivation using satellites, as a new program is developed that is sophisticated enough to classify field usage to a startling degree.
25 October 2023
On-demand gets directional
On-demand gets directional
A multi-stakeholder team of designers, developers and engineers got together to reconsider 3D-printed sports shoe models, just in time for ITMA.
18 October 2023
As good as new
As good as new
No longer the sole domain of artisanal practices, or of limited runs, upcycling and remanufacturing are progressively being applied on an industrial scale.
11 October 2023
Carbon from thin air
Carbon from thin air
Using greenhouse gases as feedstock for fuels or materials is already a reality, and could become a source of clean, carbon-neutral or even carbon-negative synthetic fibres.
27 September 2023
Biodegradation-boosting synthetics
Biodegradation-boosting synthetics
End-of-life scenarios are important when assessing a product’s impacts, but they are not an easy sell. This is one of many challenges the makers of synthetics yarns enhanced with biodegradation-accelerating additives face. As concerns regarding the permanence of plastic grow, so does demand for these materials that are engineered to leave no trace.
30 August 2023
A fine line
A fine line
Advancements in recycled cotton ring yarns for knits unveiled at ITMA are likely to inspire a sizeable ripple effect.
23 August 2023
Future-proofing the industry
Future-proofing the industry
Anticipation was high before ITMA opened its doors at Fiera Milano Rho on June 8.
16 August 2023
New fibres in the loop
New fibres in the loop
The need to increase fibre-to-fibre recycling and lack of progress in achieving this is being called out by every sustainable fashion industry coalition and report.

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