A century of tradition
Some of the machines that join Hanwag soles to uppers in its headquarters in Vierkirchen are so old that not only are they no longer manufactured, but there is no maintenance service, so the German bootmaker’s staff have to carefully tend to the machines themselves. For 100 years, the company has made rugged outdoor boots and shoes using traditional double stitching and cementing methods, eschewing some of the more modern techniques, believing the construction not only reflects the past but also creates the highest-quality shoes. “We know how mountaineering boots were made 100 years ago,” says marketing director Christian Wittig. “That’s an advantage; it means we can be progressive without losing sight of our heritage.”
Established in 1921 by Hans Wagner, a third-generation shoemaker, the company grew slowly, first from Mr Wagner’s own house, later taking on more apprentices and expanding into a workshop. The small town, near Munich, remains the company’s headquarters to this day.
Mr Wagner’s nephew Sepp joined in 1936, eager to learn the trade and to help grow the business. The factory was plundered at the end of the Second World War, but as the economy started to recover, so did the demand for ski and mountain boots. Sepp took over the management in the 1960s, and began to expand internationally, securing partnerships in the US and being well placed for the climbing and hiking boom that took off in Germany in the 1980s.
Timeless methods
A central tenet of the business is the construction technique, as Hanwag claims it is one of the few remaining shoemakers in its category to employ such time-consuming and costly processes. In the cemented construction, the upper is moulded and stretched over the last and lasted to the insole to form a unit. The upper and insole are then cemented with adhesive under high pressure and the midsole and outsole are added. In the double stitching method, the insole is punched and tacked to the last, and then the leather upper and the lining are stitched to the insole rib. Excess material is trimmed and the leather upper is secured again with a second row of stitching.
“Nowadays, to make double stitched footwear, not only do you need experience of the method, you also need to have a feel for the machines,” says production manager Harmut Trabert. “We keep them running ourselves, as there is no longer any maintenance and repair service. Hanwag is a traditional shoemaking company and it’s a matter of prestige to continue this traditional construction method.”
While the company prides itself on traditional values, it was modern-minded when it chose the construction techniques so they would enable easy resoling. Extending the useful life of shoes is something we are hearing more about, as companies look to reduce waste and tap into ‘circular thinking’. Resoling is a popular service at its headquarters in Vierkirchen. “These boots are perfectly worn in; people don’t want to replace them. In fact, they’re often long-standing companions and the source of many happy memories,” says Mr Trabert. “We often receive boots to be resoled that have seen years and years of use. It’s something that makes us proud of our work.”
A big factor in longevity is also down to the materials. Hanwag sources most of its leather from German tannery Heinen, a partnership it is particularly proud of. Heinen uses only German hides and has a close relationship with its hide merchants, tracking which slaughterhouses and farms the animals come from. These animals spend a lot of time outside in a range of weather conditions and have time to grow thick and firm hides.
For mountain boots, Hanwag uses Heinen’s branded leather Terracare, which it says is defined by the production standards: environmentally friendly, resource efficient and socially compatible. It has also produced ranges made from yak leather. “Yak leather is also excellent, only there are not that many yaks. We’re just not able to produce enough of our yak models – we could sell far more than we do,” the company states.
European footprint
As the company has grown, so has production, with manufacturing now taking place at facilities in Hungary and Croatia, as well as Germany. This enables shorter transport routes and reduces corresponding CO2 emissions, compared with outsourcing to Asia, as many companies do. “We deliberately make in Europe, not just because of shorter distances or highly skilled employees, but to uphold traditional construction techniques.” It claims the proximity also proved an advantage in 2020 when the pandemic hit, in terms of flexible production.
A finished Hanwag mountain boot consists of, on average, 180 separate parts and around 120 processes – meaning employees are highly skilled and many remain with the company throughout their working lives. It cites some of the ‘Hanwag stories’ on its website: Franz Kreutner joined as a refugee shortly after the Second World War and stayed for 47 years, while head of research Adam Weger, who worked for Hanwag from 1968 to 2015, tested every shoe in the mountains. The website has been updated this year with ‘inspirational content” and expertise, as a way of connecting to its consumers.
After the early death of his daughter, who was previously managing director of the company, Sepp Wagner sold the family-owned business to Swedish group Fenix Outdoor in 2004. The company diversified to make more styles and tap new markets, but stayed faithful to its manufacturing techniques. Its winter 21/22 collection includes The Banks Snow GTX, a winter hiking boot that is snowshoe compatible and has a built-in mini snow gaiter. It features a warm, waterproof Gore-Tex Partelana lining and slip-resistant Vibram Endurance Ice outsoles. In its hiking category, it has launched the Torsby GTX, a mid-cut, lightweight shoe made with a suede and nubuck upper and an outsole which includes recycled rubber.
Pared-down celebrations
During the 100th anniversary year, the company plans to make 400,000 pairs of boots and shoes and capitalise on the expected increase in walking and hiking as people make the most of nature following pandemic lockdowns and restrictions. The pandemic has brought new customers to the outdoors and introduced a more balanced gender mix, according to UK brand manager Christopher King. “Our business model means we are able to offer trade customers a more interesting colour palette, as well as a better fit offering thanks to our wide range of lasts,” he tells WSA. The company had originally hoped to celebrate the centenary with a big global event but, due to the pandemic, any events are now taking place on a local basis. In the UK, it will have a large presence at the Keswick Mountain Festival, which takes place in September. “We are celebrating on a global scale too,” says Mr King. “We’re proud to have launched a new Hans Wagner Heritage Collection, which includes ultra-premium and heritage- inspired handcrafted models that celebrate our history and honour our founder.”
Hanwag is confident cementing old practices and modern materials will help it through the next 100 years. “Our approach is based on employing the best craftsman, the highest quality standards and selecting the best raw materials. As to whether it’s worth the additional cost? That’s simple: it’s the only way to make such high-quality boots.”
New ranges are designed for hiking and mountain climbing, as well as everyday activities.
All Credits: Hanwag
