Uzbek cotton sourcing under the spotlight
26/02/2014
Uzbekistan has been criticised for using forced labour in the cotton sector, leading brands to say they will stop using it – although the cotton supply chain is complex and it is hard to trace cotton’s origin.
“Some progress has been made, such as the ending of forced labour for children under 15. But those welcome changes have not ended slavery in Uzbekistan, and the issue still looms large in the supply chains of companies who source cotton without transparency or disclosure,” said the RSN report.
It says of the companies surveyed, 18.5% are involved in spinner efforts individually or through initiatives, 16% provide training and require their suppliers to abide by their policies, and 12% have independent third-party audits of their mills.
Out of a maximum of 100 points, five companies scored above 50 points and 28 companies scored under 30. The highest-scoring companies were adidas, Marks & Spencer, Ikea, Patagonia and PVH Corp
The five lowest-scoring companies were All Saints, Urban Outfitters, Costco, Forever 21 and Sears Holding.
RSN added: “Although C&A, Eileen Fisher, Gap, Levi Strauss & Co, L Brands, Tesco and Wal-Mart all scored under 50 points, RSN would like to acknowledge all of the effort they have put in over the years to address the issue of Uzbek cotton.”
RSN is a project of US-based non-profit organisation As You Sow.
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