Ban on destruction of unsold textiles as EC agrees ecodesign rules
06/12/2023
Textiles and footwear are among priority product groups that need to adopt rules no later than nine months after the entry into force of the new legislation.
Negotiators agreed to specifically ban the destruction of unsold apparel, clothing accessories and footwear, two years after the entry into force of the law (six years for medium-sized enterprises). In the future, the Commission may add additional categories to the list of unsold products for which a destruction ban should be introduced. Economic operators that destroy unsold goods would have to report annually the quantities of products they discarded as well as their reasons why.
However, there has been industry opposition to a blanket ban – as reported in the latest issue of WSA magazine. Sports goods association FESI warned it could threaten a waste stream for recycling, and Fashion for Good’s Holly Vellanki told us there could be other unintended consequences that could arise from including recycling operations in the ban, including incentives to categorise textiles as ‘fit for reuse’ even when there is no viable reuse market outside the EU. “This approach can lead to increased landfilling or destruction risks in export countries and restrict availability of crucial inputs for the secondary raw material market,” she said. “There is also a need to further scale the recycling infrastructure and technology in Europe, so including the recycling operations under the ban could potentially risk and disincentivise the needed investments into technology and infrastructure.”
Another part of the legislation concerns digital “product passports”, which aim to enable consumers to make informed purchasing choices. According to the agreed text, the Commission will manage a public web portal allowing consumers to search and compare information included in product passports.
Italian politician and MEP Alessandra Moretti (pictured) said: “It is time to end the model of “take, make, dispose” that is so harmful to our planet, our health and our economy. New products will be designed in a way that benefits all, respects our planet and protects the environment. Sustainable products will become the norm, allowing consumers to save energy, repair and make smart environmental choices when they are shopping. Banning the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear will also contribute to a shift in the way fast fashion manufactures produce their goods.”
Following the completion of work at technical level, Parliament and Council need to formally approve the agreement before it can come into force.
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