Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the Geneva-based body that campaigns for increased production and consumption of “more sustainable cotton”, has ceased all field-level activities in China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR), citing “sustained allegations of forced labour and other human rights abuses”.  

For the past eight years, BCI has trained Chinese farmers in the XUAR in sustainable cotton-producing principles and practices, including: “Minimising the harmful effects of pesticides and crop protection practices, promoting water stewardship, caring for health of soil, using land responsibly, preserving cotton fibre quality and promoting decent work.” 

March 2020 saw the organisation suspend licensing and assurance operations in the XUAR, which effectively stopped any new licensed “Better Cotton” being exported from the region.   

BCI is presently directing its China-centred efforts towards Gansu, Hebei, Hubei and Shandong provinces, where the organisation has existing programmes.  

CEO, Alan McClay said: “We will re-evaluate our engagement in the XUAR when the operating environment permits.”