New report on fibre fragmentation

12/12/2025
New report on fibre fragmentation
Changing Markets Foundation has released a new report that challenges the sustainability claims of major brands and retailers with regards to recycled polyester. The organisation commissioned a report from the Microplastic Research Group of Çukurova University, Turkey. The survey covers 51 garments sold by Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein and Zara chosen to be “broadly comparable” in size and type (T-shirts, tops, dresses and shorts). 

These items were testing using two laundering methods, the GyroWash, which measures fibre count and fibre size, and the Wascator, which assesses total fibre mass loss. Results found that recycled polyester releases the highest number of fibres and the finest particles, which Changing Markets says worsens the microplastic pollution problem.

Its findings contradict prior research by The Microfibre Consortium, see here

The report found that some garments labelled recycled polyester may have actually been made from virgin polyester (Shein’s in particular). It does not distinguish mechanically recycled PET plastic flakes from other methods, such as textile-to-textile or chemically recycling, which would have been useful. In addition, Changing Markets recognises that the value of the study is affected by variations in garment types and construction across brands. 

In a webinar held this week, IFTH, a French textile institute, mentioned the new report and highlighted the importance of comparing textiles of exactly the same spinning, fabric-making and finishing processes to obtain reliable data. 

The report, “Spinning Greenwash: How the fashion industry’s shift to recycled polyester is worsening microplastic pollution”, can be accessed here