Vaude reaches next milestone in Greenpeace chemicals challenge
After finding alternatives to PFCs in clothing in 2016, outdoor brand Vaude’s footwear and backpacks are now made without polyfluorinated and perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs), a move spurred by joining Greenpeace’s Detox Commitment in 2015.
Greenpeace's demands were focused on eliminating PFCs, which are used to make textiles waterproof and breathable. They are also applied to the outer surface of rain gear to provide durable water repellency.
Vaude had eliminated PFCs in its membranes by 2011 so the biggest challenge was to provide the outer fabrics for weatherproof gear with a durable PFC-free water-repellent finish. "We worked closely with our producers and suppliers, organised round table discussions and brought together partners who were used to acting as competitors. It was successful. Promising new developments came to the market which led to testing, testing, and more testing," said Bettina Roth, head of quality management at Vaude.
Each fabric and material reacts uniquely depending on its surface properties or colour, so several hundred material tests with the PFC-free alternatives were necessary to achieve process reliability.
However, there continue to be groups of substances that are used due to a lack of alternatives, said the German company.
Although their use and application is regulated by limit values, Vaude voluntarily began gradually eliminating these chemicals before the Detox Commitment.
Vaude’s CEO Antje von Dewitz said: "When Greenpeace set its sights on the outdoor industry in 2012 with its Detox Campaign, we saw a great opportunity to finally make a difference across the industry and develop alternatives for chemicals of concern. As a single mid-sized brand, we hadn’t had enough influence with the material manufacturers before that time."
The company returned to a PFC-containing finish for two styles of weatherproof jackets and weatherproof pants in the current Winter Collection 2020, as acceptable water-repellent properties could not be achieved with PFC-free alternatives. "We were all the more pleased that we managed to ensure full functionality again starting in 2021 with our PFC-free Eco Finish," said Ms Roth. Next year, all clothing will again be PFC-free.
Seven out of 11 hazardous substance groups have been eliminated from production and it has made great strides in four other groups, it said.
Ms Roth added: “We are confident that we will achieve our goal of completely eliminating hazardous chemicals from production.”
