PFAS-free DWR start-up scales bio-based solution
French start-up H&B Materials was founded by two PhDs in chemistry, Hichem Ichou (CEO) and Baptiste Andrin (CTO). Together they have developed a non-PFAS, non-silicone and non-polyurethane DWR solution that is 96% biobased.
“Our thesis was on surface treatments,” Hichem Ichou told Sportstextiles. “When we realised that PFAS chemistry was going to be banned and that all current alternative solutions were petrochemical, we decided to focus on developing a biobased solution.”
Instead of depositing a fine water-repellent polymer layer on a fabric, H&B Materials has patented a system that chemically grafts hydrophobic (fatty acid) molecules to the individual fibres of a textile. “The technology is different, but the application process is the same. It is a plug and play solution,” said Mr Ichou. The raw material is a byproduct from plant oils. Compared to conventional finishes, H&B Materials said its treatment does not alter a fabric’s hand feel, nor create chalk marks.
Initial tests have shown high Spray Test results, consistently 5/5, he said. The stain release function works well on water-based substances (fruit juice, wine, etc). Wash resistance is currently about 30 home laundries. The team is now working on developing an oleophobic property to achieve the performance of fluorochemical solutions.
H&B Materials recently raised €2.1 million to pursue this research and scale up its current water-repellent finish which is in tests with industrial partners and sports brands. “The new funds have allowed us to hire four chemical engineers. One is dedicated to scaling production, the other three are working on improving the formula and developing an oleophobic solution,” Mr Ichou said.
