This year 191 companies took part, 10% more than last year, helping to create the Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index (MCI).

Uptake of “preferred materials” was up 24%, (from 1.7 million tonnes reported in 2019 to 2 million tonnes reported in 2020) and these materials account for 44% of the Index portfolio (previously, 39%). 

TE describes preferred materials as “fibre and materials with improved social or environmental impacts”.

Preferred cotton increased by 26% (1.3 million to 1.6 million tonnes/63% of cotton uptake) and recycled polyester by 30% (from 0.2 million tonnes/17% of polyester uptake to 0.3 million tonnes/18%).

The circularity average score moved the Circularity Index average up from a Level 2 to a Level 3 (from 34.82 to 50.83). Circularity scores increased on average by 37% with nine companies achieving the Leading Level 4: C&A, H&M Group, Knickey, MUD Jeans, Nudie Jeans, Outerknown, Patagonia, prAna, and The North Face.

Greenhouse gas savings show some improvement. While the volumes of preferred materials increased, the impact on carbon emissions requires more evidence, said TE. This is because much of the uptake growth is coming from the increased use of Better Cotton (BCI) and there is currently no life cycle assessment data to back climate improvements. The most evidence of reduction is linked to the use of recycled polyester.

Liesl Truscott, director of European and materials strategy at Textile Exchange, said the results were inspiring: “Our job at Textile Exchange is to make sure the textile and apparel industry is a force for good over this next decisive decade – and provide the tools it needs. As ever, it's only through collaboration and gritty determination that we will get to the place we need to be. 

“Our results show progress, but the transition towards a kinder and more sustainable world needs to happen fast. This means our industry must be socially just, nature positive, and circular – and make real change - within the next 10 years.”

Adidas, Nike, Vans, The North Face, Patagonia, Puma, New Balance and Decathalon were among participants in the survey.