RE&UP: Most exciting time for textiles

04/07/2024
RE&UP: Most exciting time for textiles
RE&UP, the “circulartech” company established by Turkish textiles group Sanko, has reported progress on its textiles separation capabilities as it grows its capacity of dealing with 80,000 to 120,000 tonnes of waste annually, moving towards its target of 200,000 tonnes by 2025.

The company has patented a technology to separate blends into new materials using a combination of thermochemical, thermomechanical and mechanical technologies.

Its general manager, Andreas Dorner, spoke as part of a presentation of Quantis, Boston Consulting Group and Textile Exchange’s report ‘Sustainable Raw Materials Will Drive Profitability for Fashion and Apparel Brands’ at Future Fabrics Expo in London.

He said the company had made steps in the separation of elastane but it then has to be downcycled into filling. 

“We use a solvent to separate elastane out and we convert it into a product for filling, such as for the automotive industry,” he said. “Polyester isn’t a problem, as we can make chips, but how can we solve the problem of elastane? It will always be used as it provides comfort.”

He added that the company is talking to universities and start-ups: “It’s a question for everybody, I don’t have the solution. We have a pipeline of six or seven projects and one is looking at elastane. We feel it’s better to work with Hyosung, Lycra and others to look for solutions.”

RE&UP operates a facility in Turkey, with a new site earmarked for Spain, and with more planned globally. It aims to recycle 1 million tonnes of waste annually, on a global basis, by 2030.

Mr Dorner added that there has never been a more exciting time to be in the textiles industry. With new regulation driving interest in recycled and lower-impact materials, he expects to see more innovative companies come on stream over the coming years. 

“Textiles was not at the forefront of industry in Europe for a long time, but now universities, institutes and start-ups are focused on it, and there is much more to do," he said. "We are in the most exciting area and time in this industry. If anyone has an idea, it’s the right time to invest, to collaborate and to make things better – the money is there and ideas are there. Ten years ago, we would have all looked to Asia, but now Europe is the focus, with huge commitments from brands.”